May 30, 2025 – Born in Cognac, France, Ryan Camus, 26, moved with his family to Beijing when he was a young boy, went to high school in Oxford, England, and graduated from New York University in New York City with a degree in business. He represents the sixth generation of the Camus family actively operating Maison CAMUS, the largest independent family-owned house producing luxury cognac since 1863. With his formal and real world international education and experience, Ryan has his pulse on reaching his generation to introduce them to CAMUS cognac. “We do believe that it’s important to meet people where they are so we’re not going to force young people to have an XO and drink it by the fireplace,” Ryan, CAMUS Business Development Director and Guqi Distillery General Manager, said to Chaîne from his office in Shanghai during an April 29 Zoom interview.
In the 1860s in France, enactment of the Cobden-Chevalier Treaty facilitated an expansion of wine exports that allowed free trade of wine and brandy between France and the United Kingdom. The world would soon be introduced to cognac produced by Camus La Grande Marque.
Jean-Baptiste Camus
Jean-Baptiste Camus founded the company in Cognac in 1863 to produce and market superior quality cognac, the beginning of the now 162 years and counting family-owned independent house. His new venture joined established cognac producers from Ireland and Scotland who had settled in the Cognac region decades before.
Jean-Baptiste laid the foundation for the company that remains strong to this day built upon five elements: passion, ambition, determination, perfectionism and sincerity. In recent years, the Camus family has added a core commitment to sustainability as another pillar to define the company well into the future.
Jean-Baptiste’s two sons, Gaston and Edmond, became known as the famous “CAMUS Frères,” a name that has been immortalized on labels still present on bottles held in museum and private collections. Michel, Gaston’s son, carried on the family business well into the 20th century until passing the reins to Jean-Paul, his son. Today Cyril, Jean-Paul’s son, leads the company. Ryan, Cyril’s son, is Camus Business Development Director and Guqi Distillery General Manager, a new CAMUS endeavor producing whisky in China.
Family Business Longevity
Many large business consulting firms exist to specifically help family businesses achieve longevity as each new generation of leadership emerges. Yet only a small percentage survive and flourish into and beyond the third generation. What is the Camus formula for success?
“I think many family businesses make the mistake of keeping with the same old methods and not bringing it into the present era. Each generation has to bring something of their own while respecting the core values of the family. And that’s how we’ve been able to keep growing. It’s also been a way to reduce conflict because the previous generation can still see values being upheld but the new generation is also able to create something of their own. Innovation while respecting the traditions is what has allowed us to stay a family-owned company,” Ryan said.
One tradition deeply embedded in the family is curiosity to explore the world. Ryan said his grandfather, Jean-Paul, would travel around the world each year. “He would start in Cognac and head east or west until he made it back to Cognac weeks later.” Each year it was a new adventure visiting existing markets and the company’s partners, and assessing the potential to open new markets. Before Cyril was 10 years old, he had been to Japan, Egypt and the United States as he accompanied his father on some of his annual trips.
Jean-Paul and Cyril have passed that love of exploration on to the sixth generation.
“My father lives in France and my little brother lives in Boston. I live in China most of the time. We’re spread out but we always meet once a year for a holiday in a new place. Last year we went to New Zealand for the first time. Each time we visit a new place, we always try the local food, wine and spirits and try to experience it the way they would have it there. That’s the best way to understand how the world enjoys cognac. We really need to experience the food and the culture to know the market dynamic and what part of the meal is good for cognac,” Ryan said.
Ryan noted that in most countries, cognac is served as an apéritif or digestif. But in China, cognac is only served during dinner. And most important, it is never served alone to a single guest. Rather, it is served to groups of friends or business associates. “We toast with cognac as a show of friendship. It’s how we enjoy each other’s company. That’s radically different than how we drink it in most other places,” Ryan explained.
He added that today, about 98 percent of CAMUS cognac is sold outside of France. “So it is extremely important for us to keep traveling, to keep exploring, and keep understanding the market in which we are working. That’s really been the most impactful tradition across the generations.”
The United States market opened to CAMUS in the early part of the 20th century. Ryan said that a small amount of CAMUS cognac was smuggled into America during Prohibition years. Labeled as medicine according to French regulations, the import was allowed. Sales of CAMUS cognac in the United States as a distilled spirit began after American soldiers tasted cognac in France during World War II. Similar to the history of the Jeep brand, veterans returning home from war drove sales and the popularity of both! Today CAMUS cognac distribution is concentrated on the East Coast, Ryan added.
Today Julie Landreau is the CAMUS Cellar Master. With her team at their distillery in France, the company’s foundational standard of producing superior quality cognac has not changed in 162 years. To maintain that standard, CAMUS has set a maximum capacity, which today is production of 200,000 cases per year with distribution in more than 50 countries around the world. Other well known brands have production levels in the millions of cases.
Cognac Grades
Ryan explained that nearly all cognacs are diluted with water to a standard 40 percent ABV. In a brief tutorial, he succinctly and effectively explained cognac grades:
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- VS (Very Special) – Unlike wine, Cognac does not age once bottled. The V.S. grade means the Cognac has aged at least two years in an oak barrel. Ryan said V.S. is nice with tonic or in a cocktail as it is more fruit forward.
- VSOP (Very Special Old Pale) – It is aged at least four years and many Cognac Houses, including CAMUS, age it longer. Because there is prolonged contact with oak, it has more spice notes and a little vanilla flavor from the oak. Ryan said V.S.O.P. is really nice on the rocks or in cocktails.
- XO (Extra Special) – Cognac is aged at least 10 years and is the grade most people know about. CAMUS ages X.O. from 12 to 14 years on average. It has a lot of darker notes, is nutty, and has a little bit of chocolate flavor with more of a dried and sweet fruit taste. It is served from the bottle as an apéritif, digestif or with dinner.
- Extra (Beyond Age) – Aged 15 years or longer, it has a strong violet flavor profile with hints of tobacco. Ryan said it’s quite nice.
Ryan said each year, part of the cognac volume in the barrel evaporates, the Angel’s Share as cognac producers have named it. “The angels take their share in exchange for making a better cognac,” he said. About 2 percent of the volume, mostly alcohol, evaporates each year. Cognac is from 60 to 70 percent alcohol when it starts aging and never drops below 40 percent.
Innovation and Sustainability
Ryan’s father and grandfather made their own innovative imprint on the company. “During my father’s generation, we innovated a lot in distillation methods – a lot more intense, bringing more of the aromas, that roundness that we appreciate so much in cognac today,” Ryan said. “And that all came because my grandfather himself innovated by reintroducing wine growing as a core business to the family. Still today, my grandfather takes good care of the vineyards.”
The family’s 300 hectares of vineyards are located at their home in Cognac and is also the location of the CAMUS distillery.
Aged in French oak barrels, Ryan said they tend to select older casks as newer barrels impart an oak chip flavor that results in a darker color cognac. “We want to keep that beautiful amber color that we have naturally with the product,” he said. “We want floral and fruity aromas to be more present and not be covered up by the wood.”
Julie and her CAMUS team recently innovated far outside the norm when they partially aged a small volume of cognac underwater. From a boat, she dropped a cask to the bottom of the sea and let it remain there for six weeks. As the tides came in and out, the cask was alternately underwater and exposed to the sun. Even without any direct contact with the sea, the process gave salinity to the cognac. Only five bottles of CAMUS “Sous Les Mers” (Under the Seas) cognac were produced and will soon be sold, with an Octopus masterpiece, one-by-one at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong where one bottle is on display in their stunning showroom.
Three years ago, CAMUS expanded product offerings to include whisky produced in China, a new CAMUS category being operated in partnership with China. Ryan leads that effort for the family. They built a distillery in the Anhui Province near Shanghai because of the rich tradition of producing spirits in that region and the deep knowledge Chinese distillers have of solid, instead of liquid, fermentation. “They use a special fermentation starter that turns the grain into alcohol on the spot, creating, in that process, much more flavor,” Ryan said. Now six months into production, the first bottles of malt whisky will be released to the public in about three years.
Innovating and adapting dynamically, four years ago the company set up an independent sustainable development department focused on best practices. More than 15 years ago, the company committed to sustainable viticulture at its Gerbaude vineyard. In a 2024 Sustainability Report, the company noted significant achievements. After implementing a rainwater recovery system in the vineyard, water consumption related to viticultural activities has been reduced by 90 percent. In addition, 100 percent of distillation effluents feed a methanization unit, and the viticultural effluents are collected.
“We are moving forward with passion and sincerity towards a more sustainable future, driven by the vision of a house that inspires and brings beauty and refinement to create pleasure and emotion,” Cyril said on page 3 of the Sustainability Report.
Chaîne des Rôtisseurs
With Ryan’s induction into the Chaîne at the 2024 International Grand Chapitre in Bordeaux, the Camus family has a legacy of four generations of members, the longest family legacy in the Chaîne.
Ryan was introduced to the Chaîne in Shanghai. “My first encounter with the Chaîne was in Shanghai where we organized a Ball together with the Chaîne. We have been organizing one every year since,” Ryan said. About 100 to 200 people gather over a six or seven course dinner with wine and cognac pairings while guests watch performers throughout the night. “I just thought it was so much fun,” he said. “What really struck me was how friendly people were. They were all happy to be here and enjoy conversation over cognac and over food. That’s what I found to be really enjoyable.”
In May 2024, he traveled to Bordeaux specifically for the Grand Chapitre. “That was a beautiful, beautiful event.” Three generations of his family were there to participate in his induction.
“I came to my son Ryan’s induction with the ribbon from my grandfather’s chain. An eminently symbolic gesture on this singular day. For me, the chain embodies greatness and excellence, both in the values of world gastronomy that it promotes, and in the exceptional atmosphere that it generates. In a word, the finest things in life,” Cyril said to Chaîne.
Ryan invites Chaîne members to travel to Cognac to tour their vineyards and distillery. “It’s really a beautiful and unique place. We love to have people visit,” Ryan said. At least two Chaîne members will be traveling to Cognac. At an auction held recently during the Grand Chapitre in Hawaii, Maison CAMUS donated a travel package that included a one-night stay for two persons at the private CAMUS Residence in the heart of Paris. a personal XO cognac blending session, and a private viewing of the CAMUS Ateliers collection.
CAMUS is thriving one-quarter into the 21st century and in its third century as a family-owned, independent business. With interesting trends emerging, it’s just possible groups of friends in Ryan’s generation, and those who follow, will find themselves enjoying a CAMUS Sidecar cocktail or a Camuccino coffee while sitting around the fireplace or even at a rooftop campfire! Some treasured traditions always find a way to adapt!
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Featured image above: From left, Marie Jones, Chaîne International Vice-President, Jean-Paul Camus, Ryan Camus, Cyril Camus, and Yam Atallah, Chaîne International President, at the 2024 International Grand Chapitre in Bordeaux, France. (Photo: Courtesy of Maison CAMUS)